We anchored behind the reef at Arue to buy 25kg of flour, to do shopping at Carrefour and to have the mizzen sail repaired by our neighbour on a yellow trimaran. He is a very skilled sailmaker and it turns out he likes playing a game of chess too!
The Society islands all have a barrier reef around them and there are only a few places where there is a narrow passage though the reef, called a ‘passe’. After a night on anchor behind the reef in Vaiare in 2 meters of water we sail through Passe Vaiare at Moorea to Tahiti.
Time to leave the busy anchorage behind the reef at Opunohu bay on the island of Moorea and sail overnight to Maupiti, 170 nautical miles. This will be Nicolas first nightsail since he is on board and we both look forward to the new adventure. The plan is to sail to Maupiti first and then to Bora Bora.
Tahaa and Raiatea are special: 2 islands surrounded by one barrier reef. The water of the lagoon is deep on most places so one can sail almost around both islands inside the reef. There is a beautifull shallow coral garden near motu TauTau at the west side of Tahaa so time for more snorkling.
Huahine is the last island to visit before sailing back to Tahiti. Looking very much forward to explore another lush and green island for more walking and snorkeling in the lagoons and passes. The wind in this area is mostly moderate and from the east, so sailing west is sailing against the wind.
Sailing against the tradewind on the biggest ocean of the planet is no small thing, it needs to be carefully planned. So I studied and found a suitable window where a moderate wind turned slightly to the southeast which gives a better angle when sailing close haul against wind and current.
If a paradise exists then Anaho comes close. I had the privilege to stay on anchor in Anaho bay for more than six weeks while enjoying the unspoiled environment. No roads, cars or shops here. Just a restaurant, a church and a few houses. Transport is done on horseback or by boat.
Stella spent a very rewarding three months at her daughters house in the UK helping out with two of her grandchildren: 5 month old Billy and one year old Connor. It was 42 hours of travelling halfway across world to get back home to the boat. But that was not as tiring as expected and that comes in handy.
Time to explore the last -for us- unknown Marquesian island, Tahuata. The northeast wind is favourable for sailing there from Nuku Hiva. A wonderfull sail through the full moon night. We arrive near Hanamoenoa in the early morning light after the contours of Hivao Oa and Tahuata have appeared.
A plan to sail to Tahuata for a change did not work, no favourable winds. So are still in Ua Pou at Hakahetau bay with a new plan to anchor in the port of Hakahau on the windy east side as the trade wind has dropped significantly. Hakahau has a good supermarket to stock up for the upcoming passage.
A wonderfull time, nine months in French Polynesia ends. The latest weather prediction promises that the trade winds pick up and bring us to Tonga, 1280 nautical miles west, either to Niuatoputapu island or Neiafu in the Vava’u group. Time to go through the pass to the open sea before the wind starts…
The sail from Niuatoputapu island to Neiafu in the Vava’u group is on. But there actually is a lot more wind than predicted. In Port Maurelle a sailor said this is due a local compression zone that is often present near Tonga. Other sailors reported 60 knots of wind on their short passage from Niue to Vava’au.
The wind on passage from Port Maurelle in Tonga’s Vava’au group to Suva in Fiji is just right. 15 to 20 knots of tradewind pushes us gently downwind. Jimmy Cornell’s book World Sailing Routes advices to take a small detour further South to avoid dangerous reefs in Fiji’s Lau group.
Again a beautifull sail from Suva to Denarau out following the wide access channel through the reef surrounding Suva harbour. South through the Beqa passage avoiding the shallows at Caesar rocks. Then following the South coast outside the reef over a track donated by a generous cruiser.
We pulled the anchor up and left at last from Vuda Point. We headed north past various rusty hulks outside Lautoka. We saw the pile of orange sugar cane chaff again which had smelled so sweet from the bus. Motoring north in idyllic conditions following Ocelots or Paddy’s tracks inside the reef.