The three day passage from Gibraltar to Essouria went according to plan as the winds were very well behaved and we made good time. We were going to leave on 25th but when we checked out, the jolly Gibraltarian, complete with Christmas hat, earrings and red jumper declared the Marina closed to any traffic at all on Christmas day as the boom would be up.

The boom is the door as it were that prevents oilslick from coming in . Therfore we left in the dusk of 24 th with dolphins dancing and very little traffic in the bay it being Xmas. The marina and pilot book both adviced: to have the Westgoing tide with you please leave Gibraltar 3 hours after high tide. We were a bit surprised to find current against us because we had carefully researched the tides and thought we were doing it right. Big sigh.

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On the approach to Essouria it was beautiful to see mountains which mark the end of the agricultural land and the start of the dessert .
The washing machine action of the sea (called confused seas)in the night caused my (yes its me Stella writing this piece) worst bout of sea sickness ever putting me out of action for 24 hours and flakey for the next one. I m taking a pill next time.

We anchored behind Mogador island in calm seas. Said to be the best anchorage on the Atlantic side of Morroco it was certainly good for us, where we stayed six days and nights. On the long long beach in the distance there were plenty of horses and camels. I watched the horses race and the camels plod in lines big, medium sized and little! If the wind was high we would have been able to enjoy watching the wind surfers, though for our comfort it was nice that it was so calm.

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Arrived in Essouaria. Anchored off in the bay and had a very good night of sleep.
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The following morning dinghy in the water to check in at the port police and a first visit to town

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nothing changes fast , we love it
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art works everywhere
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we might eat here
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the picture hardly does the scene justice:a breathtaking coast and relatively unspoilt. No high-rise or retirement villages here, nice

Stella says: On the second trip to land we found the proper shopping streets where the people who live here do their shopping. I love seeing what is local to buy. First in my bag went a kilo of fresh peas bought from a man selling only peas piled high on a little table .Here we see at this time of year local peas, beens, little oranges,avocados,persimmon ,dates banana, apple,tomatoes, beets, onion, garlic, all you could want and more. The ever present bunches of parsley and coriander secured with a grass band for one or two dirham that’s ten cents or so to us. Once, the smiling happy vendor wrapped it in wet newspaper for me shukran (thankyou) but all so often they ram the beautiful produce in a plastic bag. The shop keepers are bit less presumptuous now we are in touristdom where the world has caught up a little. I m not the only person who carries their own bags ! Eggs you buy loose you can choose your own. Fingers crossed! They have always been delicious so far. Everything closer to source. Wonderful. Like in Tunisia. Fabulous bread too!please may this never change ?

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Last shopping in town
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Stefan bought extra polyester filler for the boom, costs here 7 times less than in Gibraltar last week….! Checked out at the Police. On the way to Sidi Ifni en Mirleft.