Back again in Scotland

Sailing across the Irish sea and then around the Mull on a favourable tide. But remember: do not hurry, this is a pleasure craft! So let’s anchor for the night. There will be less wind tomorrow.

I wrote in Navily ’ 23.7.22 we spent a quiet night at Sanda even though it was blowing 20 to 30 knots half the night, we were protected. The sea state was quiet. We navigated blind due to the fog and were cautious, didn’t go too far in; in the morning there was another yacht lying well in and room for a few more. The anchor held well. We did not leave the boat.' We also did not reach land at Gigha although folk say how lovely it is. By the town, it was very busy and the second bay was not suitable.We anchored by the fish farms in the last bay.

We tied the dingy up on the handy concrete quay where yarrow grew nearby, and the busy hum of lawn mowers and saws fill the air. Stefan asked permission to tie up on the quay of the grand estate house the other side of the tiny road ,cream and muted pink with pale beige blocks ,remeniscient of Gloucestershire, a large house with tall windows, surrounded by lawn, set in well maintained dark green forestry. There are five such estates providing employment and keeping the status quo on Jura. Water flows off the Paps into the sea at regular intervals providing the constant back ground tinkle under the goldening brambles and abundant wild flowers and herbs by the roadside . The gently maintained country roads were a real delight . The verges cut but only enough that they were tidy and off the little road. The rest of the hedge row left to flower and seed with nature, for the wild life of course ! There are 200 people and 5000 deer…. We stayed long enough to learn that thursdays is the day for fresh local sough dough at the shop. So we tried it ( but I was not impressed my standards are too high - must be). We had our first eagle sighting in Scotland here, and we saw geese, heron and a lot of deer. The otters were hiding that week. Too far to walk all the way round and too far to go up the Paps!

One selling locally made produce like tastey baked goods advertised on a blackboard. Another with old boots strategically placed along the wall. Jura is known for its whisky. We were amused by the ginormous vats thrown out by the road side.

We spent several nights anchored in a spot the other side of Kerrera from the Marina. There was fun to be had getting to land with the tides, rocks and swell, almost always getting at the very least wet feet when tethering the dingy here. Using the picnic anchor (thanks David Gard for that expression) and a rope on a high rock, but with care as we don t need the swell to bang holes in the dingy . Stefan would rather strip off and swim to get it back than repair holes. Naturally. Even if it’s a bit cold. He is such a gentleman, always being the man of action. The walk to get the ferry to Oban was a mile at least and once we ran! The ferry leaves from Kerrera Marina to Oban a few times a day and you have to book on line as it carries twelve people only. Island life eh? The first time we ventured into Kerrera Marina you see it as you go over the rise and what a pretty sight! There are ginger woolly highland cows wetting their feet in the sea with boats moored in the background, Oban in the distance. Absolutely stunning in the last day of July’s sunshine.

Kentalen Bay. Memorable for loosing the boathook and bruising my hand badly; Guido did a heroic dash in the dingy to get the buoy to moor on in the end. This incident prompted us to buy another. We are now proud owners of two boat hooks in fact because not being able to pick up a mooring bouy unless we fetch it in the dingy and pass the rope up to the bow is very inconvenient! Hopefully won’t happen again. Far too fiddly. And my confession here, I am not confident starting the engine on our dingy . But I can scoop up rope off a buoy monkey style, no problem. Kentallenite is the name of the type of granite quarried here once, we read on an information board while on a wonderful walk. Huge magna crashing and splitting that happened during or after the last iceage created interesting geological situations… Of which I know very little.

Mull s Duart Castle. The gentleman last standing member of the Clan MacLean actually shook our hands and made conversation with us, a real kilted Scottish highlander. We saw eagles and deer on the walk round the bay to the castle. A few cars and minibuses pass us and we know we will not be alone at the castle. It was well worth the £8.50 each of us paid to get in. A treasure trove of maritime history full of family artifacts. With friendly knowledgeable kilted attendants full of more stories. When you get to the top a view over Mull Sound not to be missed with Ben Nevis just visible 30 miles away. Super place.

Inverlussa mussel farm anchorage was where we memorably walked to the Old Post Office cafe which was a long 17 miles round the coast with gentle slopes through old trees and the occasional attractive house. Not to be repeated in a hurry. But I had to get there for the cake. There was no turning back after getting to the Half Way sign. Also at the “You Are Nearly There, Promise!” sign.

And a bit of rowing practice in the dingy the next day to give the poor sad feet a rest.

We left InverLlussa mussel farm, Isle of Mull, one morning and motored out on the high tide six nm to Gylen Castle south Kerrera.The wind picked up nicely to 12 knots and we sailed in close reach. Beautiful sailing . Even when the wind is only 6 knots we make 3 nm speed across ground ( close reach) so that was fun. Conditions are suitable to anchor here for the night so we are very lucky, as it is exposed to the west winds, more usually, it could be a bad place to anchor. It is very beautiful just here with only the tower and sheep for company.

There is a walk all the way around Kerrera passing this ruined tower which was rejeuvenated somewhat with MacDougall Clan money and a grant . We found it an enchanting place to visit with the informative sign relating to the fireplaces, laterine, doorways, decorative carving and it’s past inhabitants.

The next day we tied up to a yellow mooring buoy in Oban for a few bits and pieces. Very convenient. https://obanbayberthing.co.uk

Once on our way south from Oban while we were at anchor the coastguard showed up in a motorboat. They asked us how long we had been in Scotland and we could have said anything.